CAPE CLEAR,  Ireland's southernmost inhabited Gaeltacht island, 3 miles long by 1 mile wide, lies 8 miles off the coast of West Cork. 3 miles west of the island stands the solitary Fastnet Rock. To the northwest stretches the Mizen Head, the mainland's southerly point. Cape Clear's wild romantic scenery, its sparkling harbours, its cliffs and bogs and lake, all contribute to the island's unspoilt charm. Heather, gorse and wild flowers cover the rugged hills. Myriad stonewalls have a patchwork effect on the varied landscape. Megalithic standing stones and a 5000 year-old passage grave, a 12th century church ruin, a 14th century O'Driscoll castle, cannonaded in the early 1600's, suggest times past. Saint Ciarán, the island's patron saint, is allegedly the earliest of Ireland's four pre-Patrician saints. Cape Clear's remote island location, coupled with its proximity to the continental shelf, makes it the foremost centre for bird watching in Ireland. Whale, leatherback turtle, sun fish and shark are spotted every year, dolphins regularly. Most of the 150 inhabitants speak Irish and English. Removed from the hustle and bustle of mainland life, Cape Clear offers relaxation, nature, peace. It is an excellent setting for Cape's two Irish Summer Colleges.

June through August, Cape Clear is festive.  Over 200 Irish Summer College students come to perfect their Irish and participate in outdoor games and activities. Day-trippers stroll to the lake, to the Old Lighthouse, to the Heritage Centre. Yachts ply in and out of the two main harbours, colourfully crowding them during regatta days. Holiday-making families arrive with windsurfers, canoes, fishing gear. Scuba divers prowl old wrecks and precipitous reefs. The lively pubs have frequent formal and informal sessions, many aficionados bringing their instruments. We recommend that, to avoid any disappointment, accommodation be booked in advance.

After the summer rush of activity, autumn's a suddenly richly quiet season. The island ferry cuts back on trips to the mainland. The bracken slowly turns deep russet. Now -- and in the spring -- is an ideal time not only for those seeking tranquillity off-the-beaten-track but also for transition-year students to come for special classes in archaeology, writing, outdoor adventure, the Irish language; and, most important, to give students a taste of island living. October brings more rare birds -- and more birdwatchers -- than any other month.

November through February is, normally, our gale season. Waves mountainous and "the draw" (undertow) can prevent the ferry from sailing. Surf explodes high against the cliffs, covering the island with salt spray. With winds often in excess of Force 9, walking itself can become an adventure. The reeds in the bogs turn soft orange. Self-catering prices fall to half high season rates. Love of hard weather, reading and writing and storytelling before a cosy fire, make these wild, introspective times enjoyable. The community plans activities to which visitors are welcome: a visiting drama group; dance, music or first-aid classes;  community socials; Irish lessons. . . .

March through May the island awakes from its winter slumber, returns outdoors. Farmers plant and plough, fishermen return to the sea. April is thought the second best month for sighting rare birds. Many believe May the loveliest month for wild flowers. By early June islanders anticipate the excitement of summer, though, paradoxically, by early August they yearn for the peace and tranquillity of autumn

"Oileán is ea Cléire
Ar an taobh thiar theas d'Éire.
Iascaire gach éinne da mhaireas ann beo."
(Bealoideas Chléire)

 

Page last updated March '10